Skip to content
Heart of the Pack — Pauline Cowey, regional SA dog behaviourist

Category

Aggression & Reactivity Articles

How to read aggression and reactivity for what they really are — and what actually helps.

← All articles
Accredited Dog BehaviouristCrystal Brook, SARegional SA + Online Australia-wide

From Pauline

Why these cases need their own writing

Aggression and reactivity are the cases I work on most often, and they are the cases most likely to be made worse by the wrong advice. There is a particular kind of training culture — corrections, prong collars, e-collars, alpha-rolls, “you have to dominate them” — that still circulates in regional Australia and still gets recommended at the pub. It looks decisive. It is not. It almost always escalates the dog.

These articles take the cases apart honestly. What aggression actually is (and isn’t). The difference between a frustrated reactive dog and a fearful one. Why a dog over threshold cannot learn. What a real rehabilitation timeline looks like — usually weeks to months, not a weekend.

The single most useful distinction I make in an aggression or reactivity case is fear versus arousal. Both look like the same noisy explosion at the end of a lead, and both get treated with the same generic protocol online, but the underlying state is opposite. A fearful dog is trying to push the threat away from itself. An aroused dog — a frustrated greeter, a fence runner, a "barrier reactive" dog — is trying to get to the trigger, not get rid of it. The interventions for each are different, and applying the fearful-dog protocol to a frustrated greeter (or vice versa) makes the case worse fast. Almost every reactivity article in this category turns on getting that read right first.

The other piece worth writing about plainly is the suppression-versus-resolution distinction. A shock collar, a prong collar or a strong correction can stop a dog showing the warning signs of aggression — the growl, the lip-curl, the stiff stare — without changing the state behind those signs. The dog still feels what it felt; it has just learned not to show it. That is how a dog ends up biting "out of nowhere": the warnings were drilled out of it months ago. Articles in this category cover the alternative — leadership, structure, threshold work, environmental management — which resolves the state instead of muzzling it.

Rehabilitation timelines are the third honest conversation I want owners to have before they start. A genuine aggression case is usually three to six months of consistent work to reach a stable household life, with another six to twelve months of careful generalisation after that. That is far faster than most owners fear, and far slower than the one-session promises they have been sold elsewhere. Knowing the realistic shape of the work is half the battle — it stops owners panicking when week four feels like a plateau, and it stops them quitting at month two when most of the change is just about to land.

If your dog has bitten, lunged, growled, or you are genuinely worried about what they might do — start here, and please don’t wait. The earlier we work on these cases, the better they go.

Start here

Find out what is really going on with your dog — in 2 minutes.

The Free Dog Behaviour Test gives you (and Pauline) a clear starting point. No pressure, no spam, no obligation — just clarity.